Although it is usually sage advice not to skip interim fittings for bespoke garments (particularly for the first commission with a new tailor), I recently succumbed to the temptation and ordered a BnTailor DB on a short trip to Korea. Though not their recommended process, Changjin graciously agreed to expedite a basted fitting in a few days and have the finished suit delivered to my doorstep. Without going into the necessity of fittings and the finished product, let’s take a look at their measuring process and the unique Korean basted fitting.
|With the diagonal creases along the top right of the waistcoat, the shoulder must be picked up on that side. The front trouser pleat is also misaligned with the trouser crease.|
|Master Tailor Park Jung-Yul noting my shoulder slope with the humble L-square, especially important for unpadded shoulders which must follow the natural shoulder structure without padding.|
|Notice the line of basting (white thread) along the outseam and how it bends slightly forward at the thigh rather than falling straight down, this area must be let out to accommodate my quadriceps.|
|Aside from the quintessential tailor’s tape, BnTailor employs an elastic band wrapped slightly snug around the chest to take an average chest measure at rest.|
Let’s take a look at my finished DB suit from Korean bespoke tailor B&Tailor. As mentioned in the previous post, the suit was ordered with only a single basted fitting. Despite their best efforts and comprehensive fitting, the outcome is a mixed bag of sorts. Please note many of the issues here would very likely be avoidable if I had had the resources (time, annual leave, money, etc.) to have a forward fitting as well. Although the suit is certainly not perfect, there are quite a few redeeming qualities and admirable characteristics nonetheless.
For the admirers of gratuitous (read: nonessential, but nice to have) detailing, B&Tailor cuts no corners here. Check out the fine handsewn buttonholes, lapped seams and spalla camicia, beefy lapel roll, vent strap with handsewn keeper loop, superfluous bartacks and blunted corners all over with a lovely peak lapel. The fit was a bit tight around the bottom pair of buttons so it will definitely need some adjustment, but otherwise it looks pretty good unbuttoned for a first commission especially without a forward fitting!